The details…

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Expedition Overview

At 8848 metres above sea level, climbing Mount Everest is one of the most significant mountaineering achievements on earth. Any expedition to this peak is a major undertaking and should be undertaken only with the very best leader, guides, support staff and logistics.

Andrew offers incomparable Himalayan experience to provide a cost-effective full-service expedition with the best chance of a successful and safe summit on Mt Everest. The expedition is limited to six climbers with Andrew as expedition leader and a 1:1 Sherpa to client ratio. Our expedition will ascend Mt Everest in the pre-monsoon season (April – May) of 2021. The expedition will follow the traditional ‘Hillary’ route via the South Col / South East Ridge on the Nepal side of Mt Everest.

 

Dates

20th March – 27th May 2025. 65 days in country. Travel to and from Nepal will be outside those dates.

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Itinerary and Climb in detail

The Climb

The climbing begins in the Khumbu Icefall immediately above basecamp. We will use prefixed ropes and ladders to safeguard our ascent. Having sharpened our technical skills at basecamp we will move through this area and ascend to Camp 1 on the Khumbu glacier at 6000 metres. We could reasonably expect the ascent to camp one to take six or more hours on our first trip but with further acclimatisation during the expedition, that time should shorten significantly.

From here the route follows a gradually ascending glacier known as the Western Cwm, neatly sandwiched between the west shoulder of Mt Everest on our left, Nuptse peak on our right and Lhotse, the world’s fourth highest peak, immediately to our front. Camp 2 is situated at 6500 metres below the southwest face of Everest, about 5 hours walk from Camp 1. This walk can vary from blisteringly hot on sunny windless days to icy cold if clouds block the sun or the wind picks up.

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A short walk above Camp 2 is the Lhotse face, which we must ascend to reach Camp 3 metres. Being the pre monsoons season, this face, while not particularly steep, can be icy and exhausting as we ascend fixed ropes for 800 metres. The camp is located on ice ledges hacked out of the Lhotse face and can be very cold and safety becomes paramount with the massive Lhotse face falling away beneath us.

Most climbers will use oxygen from this point for the ascent up to Camp 4 , at 8000 metres as we first ascend another couple of hundred metres up the face before beginning a long and exhausting traverse over the Yellow Band (a limestone rock band), and later climb rocky terraced steps up the Geneva Spur to finally reach the South Col at almost 8000 metres.

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The push to the summit will commence later in the evening of the same day that we reach camp 4, often as early as 9pm, with the intention of climbing through the night and the next morning to be on the summit by midday (at the very latest) next day. We will then descend to Camp 4 and if time allows, continue our descent to Camp 3 on the same day.

 

Climb Strategy

While Mt Everest’s summit is our goal, the highest priority will always be the safety of the entire team.

Our programme is specifically designed to allow us to acclimatise to the very best that we are able and to climb within that acclimatisation schedule. We will only proceed to higher camps once our acclimatisation is appropriate and the necessary safety ropes and ladders have been put in place.

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The ascent of Mt Lobuche East at the beginning of the expedition is designed to enhance acclimatisation but should also identify any significant health or fitness issues that might otherwise only reveal themselves on Everest. Additionally, being fully acclimatised to 6000 metres by ascending Mt Lobuche East, means that we can limit the number of traverses of the Khumbu Icefall (between 5300 metres and 6000 metres) on Mt Everest, traditionally the more dangerous part of the mountain.

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All climbers and Sherpas will use supplementary oxygen above camp three. During the preparatory phase of the expedition, our Sherpas may well climb separately from the client team on some days as they ferry loads up the mountain to ease the burden on the clients. However on the summit push every client will be accompanied by an individual Sherpa to assist with carrying the client’s oxygen and to provide an escort at all times in case any client should need to descend ahead of the main team.

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All climbers and Sherpas will use supplementary oxygen above camp three. During the preparatory phase of the expedition, our Sherpas may well climb separately from the client team on some days as they ferry loads up the mountain to ease the burden on the clients. However, on the summit push every client will be accompanied by an individual Sherpa to assist with carrying the client’s oxygen and to provide an escort at all times in case any client should need to descend ahead of the main team.

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Itinerary in Detail

Day 1 - Arrival in KTM, transfer to hotel& briefing

Day 2 - Half day sightseeing and afternoon equipment checking and fitting

Day 3 - Kathmandu; final preparation and packing

Day 4 - Fly to Lukla (2840m); trek to Phakding (2610m) 40min flight, 3-4hrs

Day 5 - Trek Namche Bazar (3440m)-6hrs

Day 6 - Acclimatisaiton hikes - Khumjung, Khunde (3840m)

Day 7 - Acclimatisation hikes – Thame village 4-5hrs

Day 8 - Trek Tengboche (3860m); visit monastery 5hrs

Day 9 - Trek Dengboche (4410m) in the ChhukungValley

Day 10 - Day hikes to Nagarjun Peak (5200m) 5hrs

Day 11 - Trek to Lobuche (4910m) 4hrs

Day 12 - Trek to Gorakshep (5150m) 3hrs

Day 13 - Trek to Everest Base Camp (5364m) 5-6hrs

Day 14-37 - Acclimatization climb on Lobuche East (6,119m) Peak, load carries and acclimatisaiton on Everest to camp 3

Day 38-45 - Trek out and rest at lower villages, eg Debouche

Day 46-57 - Climb to camp IV, Summit Push

Day 58-59 - Base camp

Day 60 - Trek to Pheriche 6hrs

Day 61 - Trek to Namche 5hrs

Day 62 - Trek to Lukla 6hrs

Day 63 - Fly to Kathmandu

Day 64 - Bad weather contingency day/Free day in Kathmandu

Day 65 - Expedition concludes

 

Logistics and General Arrangements

In Kathmandu

In Kathmandu, you will be met at the airport and transported to our 4 star hotel near the main tourist area, Thamel. At the hotel you will be met with a welcome drink and receive a briefing from your expedition leader, Andrew Lock. That night we will enjoy a welcome dinner where we can begin to build the important bonds necessary for a high performing team.

On the day following your arrival, the entire team will attend a mandatory expedition briefing at the Nepal Ministry of Tourism.

We will also have time to complete any last minute equipment purchases in the high quality gear stores nearby.

 

Meals

In Kathmandu, breakfast will be included at our hotel, while lunches and dinners can be enjoyed at the numerous quality restaurants in the vicinity.

Once on the trek and for the duration of the expedition, all meals are included in the service package.

Snacks and alcoholic drinks are at the members’ expense.

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Trekking to Base Camp

We start our journey by flying from Kathmandu to the mountain airstrip at Lukla village, one of the world’s most renowned mountain flights. From there we commence trekking towards Everest basecamp. Over 10 days, we stage our approach carefully to ensure appropriate acclimatisation, stopping for rest and additional acclimatisation as appropriate. We will stay in good quality village lodges and eat meals prepared by our trained staff.

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Base Camp

Our base camp is among the most luxurious at the mountain. Climbers are provided with individual mountain tents fully equipped with insulated mattresses. The camp and all tents are erected by our logistical support team, prior to our arrival.

We will have a heated and carpeted dining tent equipped with electric lighting, battery recharging facilities, music, books and games.

While Everest’s basecamp is covered by a local mobile phone service, it can be intermittent so we shall also have satellite phones available for all team members to use at cost.

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Basecamp Kitchen

Our professional kitchen is staffed by a trained head cook ably supported by a team of highly experienced expedition assistant cooks. All kitchen staff have been professionally trained in western food preparation and the strictest hygiene standards.

Our menu is varied and designed to meet international tastes. Meals are hearty and nutritious and enhanced by an array of appetizers, snacks and hot drink mixes. We use local fresh produce and meats complimented by a selection of imported foods and nibbles.

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High Altitude Camps

High quality mountain tents are used at camps above basecamp on a two person per tent occupancy except at the highest camp where there will be three people per tent for warmth, safety and to reduce the loads of our Sherpas. All high altitude food, stoves and cooking gas will be transported to the camps by our strong Sherpa team. Members are only required to carry their own personal gear during the expedition.

We have a fixed kitchen/dining tent at camp 2 which is permanently staffed by a trained cook to ease the burden on team members.

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Weather forecasts

The expedition will utilise a proven Himalayan weather forecasting service for up to date information throughout the expedition.

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Communications

All climbing team members, climbing Sherpas and guides will be issued with two-way radios to be carried at all times on the mountain. We will also have a base station radio in our base camp and at camp 2, which will be monitored at all times when members and Sherpas are on the mountain.

There will be access to satellite phone communications at Base Camp.

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Medical

Andrew and our Sherpas are highly trained in medical and technical rescue, and carry medical and rescue equipment with them at all times on the mountain.

We provide medical oxygen, portable altitude chambers and comprehensive medical kits at base camp. The higher camps also have medical kits and we also ask that all climbers carry individual micro high altitude medical kits at all times above base camp. All climbing members and climbing Sherpas wear a personal avalanche beacon above base camp.

As partners with the Himalayan Rescue Association's (HRA) Everest Base Camp Clinic, our entire team of climbers, guides and Sherpa has unlimited access to the Clinic and consultation with their full-time doctors.

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Environmental Impact

Andrew Lock Adventures promotes ‘Leave No Trace’ ethics in the outdoors.

Excess packaging is removed from food and equipment prior to departure to minimize waste and we carry all our trash and unused supplies off the mountain.

Biodegradable bags are provided to all team members to ensure proper human waste disposal.

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Fitness and Prior Experience

Fitness

To reach the summit of Everest (8850 metres / 29035 feet) one must be in top physical, psychological and emotional condition. Prior ascents of mountains over 6000 metres are generally a minimum standard, and preferably 7000 or even 8000 metre ascents are ideal.

Participants must train consistently to develop cardio vascular stamina and as high a VO2 max level as possible. Please refer to our Physical Preparation  page for further information and contact our office if you have any questions.

 

Experience

All team members must have undertaken appropriate mountaineering skills development and training in basic climbing techniques and use of mountaineering equipment including crampons, ascenders, descenders and ice axes.

Members will be required to have reached the summit of at least one 6000 metre peak and preferably a 7000 metre peak. To assist members in their preparation, Andrew will lead an expedition during October/November 2023, to climb Mera Peak and Baruntse Peak in the Nepal Himalaya. This expedition is designed to provide aspiring Everest summiteers with a multi week, multi camp climb, very similar to conditions on Everest but at a lower altitude. It allows the team to establish essential camaraderie for the more major ascent in 2024 and to understand how you respond to high altitude and the effects of working hard in that environment.

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Pricing, Payments, Refunds, Insurance

Cost - USD$75,000

Payments

• Deposit: USD$15,000 due upon registration

• Balance due November 1st, 2024

• A 3% surcharge will be added to all credit card charges

Please note: Acceptance onto this expedition is based on your prior experience, skill level and medical suitability. Enrolment will only be confirmed upon receipt of deposit and completed medical assessment form.

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Cancellation Refund Policy

Refunds: Please note that NO REFUNDS can be given on the deposit or any subsequent payments for this expedition. This is because Andrew Lock Adventures must make regular payments to our agents in Nepal to secure climbing permits, the services of our expert Sherpa guides, and to purchase necessary equipment and food months in advance, to enable it to be packed and shipped to basecamp well ahead of the group. Once paid, we are unable to retrieve those funds. This refund policy also protects other team members who have financially committed to the expedition.

 

Insurance

Medical and Rescue Insurance

In case of emergency and at any time during the expedition, Andrew Lock Adventures and its staff will use all resources available to rescue and evacuate injured team members. From Base Camp, helicopter rescue is possible. Above Base Camp however, helicopters cannot be guaranteed and additional Sherpa support may need to be purchased to evacuate an injured climber. Any additional cost involved in an emergency will be the responsibility of the climbing member(s) requiring the medical attention and/or evacuation. Therefore you must have appropriate medical and rescue insurance that is valid for high altitude mountaineering on Mount Everest. Andrew Lock Adventures recommends Global Rescue for rescue insurance.

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Trip Cancellation Insurance

Noting the above refund policy and that there are many unforeseen circumstances which may occur during or leading up to the expedition, we highly recommend trip cancellation insurance. It may be the only way to receive a refund for unused services.

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Inclusions/Exclusions

Cost includes

• Expedition permit, peak fee, garbage deposit and national park entry fees

• Liaison Officer, Sherpas, porters, camp staff, guides and their insurance

• Five nights’ accommodation in a 5 star hotel on a single room basis with breakfast in Kathmandu.

• All transportation in Nepal, including round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla

• All food and accommodation during the trek.

• Commercial kitchen facilities and large, carpeted & heated dining tent in basecamp

• Trained cook and assistants in basecamp

• High quality food in basecamp and on the mountain

• Large comfortable personal basecamp tents with insulated mattress.

• Gas heated hot shower in basecamp

• Recharging facilities in basecamp

• Professional weather forecasting service while at the mountain

• All group equipment for the mountain including: mountain tents, cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, oxygen, mask and regulator, etc.

• Medical kits, portable altitude chamber and medical oxygen

• Access to a medical doctor in Base Camp

• Personal two-way radios and base radio stations at basecamp and camp 2

• Satellite phone and Wi-Fi – fees apply at cost

Not included

• Personal clothing and climbing equipment

• International Air tickets & any departures taxes

• Visa costs

• Trip cancellation insurance. This is highly recommended

• Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance – it is a requirement that all participants have medical and rescue insurance that covers high altitude mountaineering on Mt Everest

• Costs incurred due to any delay or cancellation of flights, or extension of trek or climbing period etc

• Helicopter back to Kathmandu if member chooses to utilise this service.

• Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu

• Items of a personal nature in Kathmandu or during the expedition such as phone calls, laundry, room service, alcoholic beverages, snacks purchased on trek etc.

• Basecamp wifi and satellite phone calls – charged at cost

• Tips & Summit bonus (USD$1500 to each climbing Sherpa)

• Personal Puja contribution (USD$50)