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Mera Peak & Baruntse Peak, Nepal

Expedition Dates

  • Mera Peak, 6476 mtrs &

  • Baruntse Peak, 7129 mtrs

28 Sept - 31 Oct 2024 - Places Available

This exciting and diverse 34 day expedition will ascend two peaks spanning the Khumbu and Makalu Barun regions of the Nepal Himalaya, affording intimate views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and the extraordinary range of high peaks in the area.

 

We shall take advantage of the relatively non technical Mera Peak ascent as part of our acclimatisation program for the more challenging climb of Baruntse Peak. We avoid the busy Khumbu Everest trail and follow beautiful and quiet paths through the remote Hinku valley, crossing lofty passes and revelling in the unspoiled rugged wilderness.

 

Why climb with Andrew Lock ?

  • Because his focus is on giving you the very best opportunity to achieve your goal, safely. He will not rush the expedition or take shortcuts.

  • He factors in additional contingency days for acclimatisation and bad weather.

  • He provides a 1:2 guide to client ratio on summit day and has safety oxygen and a high altitude chamber throughout the expedition,.

  • With Andrew Lock you have the very best leadership and experience, supported by the best Sherpa climbing team in the business.

  • His single minded goal is your success and safe return.

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Costs

Cost: AUD$17090

(approximately USD $11,100)

I shall be working with World Expeditions for this expedition so please follow the sign me up link to complete the booking process. 

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The Details...  

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Expedition Overview

Mera Peak lies to the east of the normal Nepal Khumbu valley trekking route to Mt Everest basecamp. As such the approaches receive far less traffic and are visited by just the odd trekking group and those heading to the peak itself. The ascent of Mera Peak is not technical but is challenging in its own right as Mera is the highest of the trekking peaks in Nepal, at 6476 metres. Baruntse Peak is even more remote and visited by only a few parties each year. It lies almost equidistant between Mount Everest and Mount Makalu, the world's highest and 5th highest peaks respectively. Oh and almost underneath Lhotse, the world's 4th highest mountain! It is literally in the throne room of the Mountain Gods! At 7129 metres, Baruntse is a significant undertaking and an expedition peak in its own right. As such we treat it with the greatest respect, and utilise all necessary time, safety equipment and support to achieve a safe summit and return. It is an ideal peak for those wanting a remote Himalayan expedition or as preparation for higher goals such as Everest or another 8000er.

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Access to these peaks involves remote and at times strenuous trekking. We have developed our itinerary both to avoid the Everest trek crowds and to allow our bodies to adjust to the ever increasing altitude. While the altitude does present its own challenges, the climbing on both peaks is non-technical but still warrants safety ropes and guides to avoid crevasses. The Baruntse climb ascends steep and exposed high altitude ridges, providing lofty exposure indeed. To safeguard our ascent we shall place fixed ropes for all climbers and Sherpas. The program allows us appropriate acclimatisation on the trek to, and climb of, Mera Peak, then allows us several days of relaxing trekking and further acclimatisation as we move to Baruntse. 10 days have been scheduled for the Baruntse climb, however we have facted in a number of additional contingency days and will alter the schedule as necessary to give ourselves the very best chance of success.

 

The expedition will be led by Andrew Lock, and will partner with our local Nepal agency for in country logistics.

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Itinerary

Day 1 Arrive Kathmandu

Day 2 In Kathmandu - last minute preparations & gear purchases

Day 3 Fly to Phaplu

Day 4 Drive to Bung at 1800 metres

Day 5 Trek to Khiraule, 2400 metres

Day 6 Trek to Chalem Kharka, 3600 metres

Day 7 Trek to Khola Kharka, 4200 metres

Day 8 Trek to Hinku Valley camp near Kothe, 3600 metres

Day 9 Trek to Thagnag village, 4356 metres

Day 10 Acclimatisation day./preparations for Mera Peak

Day 11 Trek to basecamp at Khare Village, 5025 metres

Day 12 Preparation/Aclimatisation walk to Mera La and return

Day 13 Ascend to Mera Peak high camp, 5780 metres

Day 14 Climb to Mera Peak Summit, 6654 metres and descend to Kongmo Dingma

Day 15 Trek to Seto Pokheri, 5300 metres

Day 16 Trek to Baruntse base camp , 5400 metres

Day 17 - 26 Ascent of Baruntse

Day 27 Trek to Amphu Lapsa basecamp

Day 28 Cross Amphu Lapsa (high pass) and trek to Dobato village

Day 29 Trek to Pangoche village

Day 30 Trek to Namche Bazaar village

Day 31 Trek to Lukla village

Day 32 Fly to Kathmandu

Day 33 Contingency day/free day in Kathmandu

Day 34 Departure

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Inclusions/Exclusions

Inclusions

  • all meals while trekking and climbing

  • breakfasts while in hotels in Kathmandu

  • accommodation at a 3 or 4 star Hotel in Kathmandu

  • fully serviced wilderness camping

  • Accredited, first aid trained mountaineering leader and experienced local crew

  • 1:2 climbing sherpa to climber ratio

  • airport transfers if arriving on day 1 and 34 or if you booked pre/post tour accommodation 

  • flights Kathmandu/Phaplu and Lukla/Kathmandu valued at US$400

  • 25kgs luggage allowance on internal flights

  • safety equipment including group medical kit, high altitude chamber, oxygen cylinder for emergency use and satellite phone

  • private transportation

  • all park entrance fees, trekking and peak permits

  • porters to carry personal and group equipment

  • insurance, protective clothing, food and shelter for porters and climbing sherpas

Not Included

  • International Flights and Taxes

  • Tips

  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu

  • Bottled water, aerated & alcoholic drinks

  • Items of a personal nature such as phone calls, laundry, etc.

  • Visa

  • Travel Insurance

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Physical Preparation

Fitness

To reach the summit of a 7000 metre peak one must be in top physical, psychological and emotional condition.    Participants must develop good cardio vascular stamina and as high a VO2 max level as possible. Please refer to our Physical Preparation page for further information and contact our office if you have any questions.

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Experience

It is not necessary for team members to have prior experience, although this is highly recommended. Appropriate mountaineering skills development, training in basic climbing techniques and use of mountaineering equipment including crampons, ascenders, descenders and ice axes will be provided during the expedition prior to the ascent.  This is why we ascend Mera Peak prior to moving to Mt Baruntse.

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Booking a place

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To reserve a spot on this expedition, click the SIGN UP button.  As I shall be working with World Expeditions for this expedition, the link will take you to their expedition page.

 

In the meantime, please email enquiries@andrewlockadventures.com should you have any questions.

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