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1st Ascent - Unclimbed Peak Dogari Himal, 6536 metres, Nepal

Expedition Dates

  • 9 November to 6 December 2025

This exciting 28 day expedition will attempt the first ever ascent of a remote and beautiful Himalayan peak in the central western Dolpo region of Nepal.  We shall fly to a small rural village then trek for several days to basecamp.  At basecamp we shall practice our alpine climbing techniques before moving onto the mountain to explore and ascend on untrodden ground.  


Why climb with Andrew Lock ?

  • Because his focus is on giving you the very best opportunity to achieve your goal, safely. He will not rush the expedition or take shortcuts.

  • He factors in additional contingency days for acclimatisation and bad weather.

  • He provides a 1:2 guide to client ratio on summit day and has safety oxygen and a high altitude chamber throughout the expedition,.

  • With Andrew Lock you have the very best leadership and experience, supported by the best Sherpa climbing team in the business.

  • His single minded goal is your success and safe return.


Cost: USD$10,880

The Details...  

Expedition Overview

Dogari Himal lies to the west of Putha Hiunchuli (also known as Dhaulagiri 7) at the far western end of the Dhaulagiri chain. Our access to the peak will be via a spectacular flight to the small village of Juphal, followed by several days remote trekking to our basecamp.

The approach to this peak involves remote and at times strenuous trekking. We have developed our itinerary to allow our bodies to adjust to the ever increasing altitude. While the altitude presents its challenges, the climbing will provide its own difficulties as we explore this untrodden ground. We have factored in a number of additional contingency days and will alter the schedule as necessary to give ourselves the very best chance of success.


The expedition will be co-led by Andrew Lock, and will partner with our local Nepal agency for in country logistics.


Day 1 – arrive Kathmandu, night stay Dalai La Boutique Hotel – Thursday 9 November 2023
2 – fly Nepalgunj
3 – fly Juphal, trek Dunai
4 – trek khola one camp
5 – trek khola two camp
6 – trek Dogari Himal base camp
7 – 22 – climbing days
23 – trek Khola two camp
24 – trek Khola one camp
25 – trek Juphal
26 – fly Nepalgunj, fly Kathmandu
27 – Kathmandu
28 – depart Kathmandu (or stay on) – Wednesday 6 December 2023


  • Spectacular and scenic fixed wing flights through the Himalaya

  • High adventure

  • Expedition style climbing with fixed ropes and established camps

  • 1:2 (sherpa:climber) ratio of climbing Sherpas (rope fixing, camp establishment, climbing assist)

  • Two western guides, Luke Smithwick and Andrew Lock

  • full instruction and review for the climb in Dogari Himal base camp

  • on call doctor for emergencies

  • expedition chef providing Asian fusion and western cuisine




  • Airport transfers

  • Hotel and lodging for the no of nights as specified in the itinerary – single supplement, with breakfast (check out the list of our preferred hotel providers here)

  • Domestic/ international flights as specified in the itinerary, including standard baggage allowance (varies by airline)

  • All group transportation by private vehicle

  • All team (camping) gear

  • All porterage/ horses/ yaks/ donkeys to carry group and personal gear

  • All necessary entrance fees, camping charges, climbing and trekking permits

  • Goal Zero Solar charging for electronics

  • Weather updates and forecasting

  • Access to satellite phone on expeditions in Nepal and Tibet (we will recharge to you actual phone calls and e-mail costs)

  • Pre expedition support and gear advice by email/ phone

Not Included

  • Meals while not on expedition (i.e. in Kathmandu, Pokhara, Leh, Lhasa)

  • Trip/ medical/ rescue insurance

  • Visas

  • International flights

  • Personal Sherpa

  • Oxygen (unless specified in the itinerary)

  • Personal equipment

  • Alcohol and soft drinks

  • Laundry, tipping and other items of personal nature

  • Gratuities and items of a personal nature (laundry, bar bills, etc.). We recommend $100-$150 per person thrown into the tips pool for the crew.


Physical Fitness

To reach the summit of a 6000 metre peak one must be in top physical, psychological and emotional condition.    Participants must develop good cardio vascular stamina and as high a VO2 max level as possible.

Please refer to our Physical Preparation page for further information and contact our office if you have any questions.

Prior Experience

It is not necessary for team members to have prior experience, although this is highly recommended. Appropriate mountaineering skills development, training in basic climbing techniques and use of mountaineering equipment including crampons, ascenders, descenders and ice axes will be provided during the expedition prior to the ascent.  

Booking a place

To reserve a spot on this expedition, please email .

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